29.10.11

Time in Sevilla

The schedule
Things don’t really get going before 9 am here.  Lunch isn’t until 2:30 or so, and it’s followed by siesta time.  I thought that the siesta wasn’t really a big deal- WRONG.  Most places shut down after lunch.  But I never complain about mandatory nap time; plus, lunch is the heaviest meal of the day, so I need time to recover.  Things pick back up around 5 or 6, depending on the weather.  The summers here are unbearably hot.  During my first few weeks in Sevilla the average high was around 104 F.  (which is the reason for the siesta- no one goes out in that kind of heat).  In the summer, the siestas are longer.  An early dinner is served at 9:30 pm, and it’s very normal to be out until at least midnight.  On the weekends, there are kids out at the bars with their parents well after midnight.  For the youngfolk, coming home between 2 and 4 is expected.  At home, I would eat dinner between 5 and 6:30, which seems like a joke now.  Literally, the Spanish laugh when they hear this.  By now, I’m pretty adjusted to the schedule, so I will probably continue practicing the siesta when I get home.  
Taking time
The pace of life is much, much slower in southern Spain. Sevillanos really take their time- it’s a very social culture.  They spend hours at the bar or cafe, talking with their friends or whoever else comes by.  Everyone’s a regular at some bar or cafe.  And during the day, people sit on their doorsteps or on benches, just watching and visiting.  They also walk slower here.  Which is fine, except when they block the whole sidewalk or take a stroll in the middle of the bike lane when I’m on my way to class (and they KNOW I’m right behind them).  It’s very different from life in an American city, where walking down the street at times feels like I’m interrupting a marathon.  Sevillanos “live in the streets” because apartments in the city are very compact, and they enjoy their time.  This is something I’m learning to take advantage of while I’m here (which you probably can tell, as I’ve been taking my time updating the ole blog).
And to help you imagine life here, a partial list of popular things in Sevilla:

Dogs.  Mullets.  The lottery.  Dressing up.  Cafes.  Ham.  Bars.  Bread.  Motorcycles and vespas.  Bad driving.  Double parking.  Parking on sidewalks.  Running red lights.  Gunning down pedestrians.  Olive Oil.  Rollerblading.  Biking.  Ham.  Cruzcampo (THE beer of Sevilla).  Smoking.  No air-conditioning.  Ham.  Shoe stores.  Gypsies.  Ice cream stores.  Corte Ingles (the store Wal-Mart wishes it could be).  Olive Oil.  Churros.  Tinto.  Flamenco.  Ham.  Chino stores (Spanish equivalent of a dollar store, except a million times better).  Military time.  And more ham.  


Hasta luego

Marion

19.10.11

Portugal, or where you'll find me if I disappear

To spare you a novel of me gushing about how my new favorite place in the world is the southern coast of Portugal and how I want to move here and live on the beach forever, we’ll let the pictures guide this post, with limited (maybe) explanations from me.  After all, who wants to read about the beach when you can look at it?  If you want to read more, see the thesaurus entry for beautiful.
Here’s the gist of the weekend.  My friends Libbey and Kelly and took the 7:30 bus to Lagos Friday morning (October 14).  Lagos has a reputation as a tourist-trap-party-town, but we arrived right after the end of the tourist season, missing the rowdy touristy crowds.  It’s really small, so it was easy for us to find our way around.  After a lunch of the "best prawns in the world" (according to the waiter), we walked/hiked along the golden coast

lagos from the beginning of our trek


the first of many beaches.  I cropped out the "well-
fed" men in their speedos...you're welcome


lots of the cliffs have tunnels and arches
to climb through to get from
beach to beach

the golden coast (although the lighting's off here)

libbey, me, kelly- halfway there!



Just as the sun was beginning to set, we finally made it to our destination...the lighthouse!



And here's where your girl gets outdoorsy.  I adventured out to this point (climbing across crumbling stone stairs) and climbed down to the flat part on the right 

you can't really see the climbing
part in this picture, but it's there

and found this grotto

feel like there should be a mermaid or a
pirate here


We stayed here until the sun set (it's killing me to only put one picture up)...



then back to town, to dinner, and then to Portuguese desserts, recommended by the hostel owner.  


On the left is Don Rodrigo- he’s super sweet, and I have no idea what’s in it besides a ton of sugar...couldn't handle it.  On the right is a pastry that was impossible to eat without making a mess (clearly), but was super delicious and buttery.
Next morning, we headed to the seafood market, where we saw some dinner



And then to the roof of the market for a view of the marina



We went to the marina to catch a boat for a grotto tour.  Our guide was an old sailor/fisherman named Antonio (he was missing some teeth, so he was legit).  He took us along the coast where we walked the day before, but stopping in some of the grottos:
elephant...can you see it?


hanging out in the grotto


this one's called the Chapel

camel

We returned to shore for sandwiches, and then we hit the beach!  The water was super rough (I lasted about a minute before being knocked flat on my face) but Kelly and I did catch this:

power

We stayed until it got cold, and then went to dinner, where we had our fill of seafood: Caldeirada, which is Portuguese fish stew (ours had monkfish and prawns), and a little swordfish on the side. 

Caldeirada...de.lish.

We left Lagos at 6:30 the next morning...the hostel owner was so confused as to why we were leaving, and basically had me convinced that I should skip class and stay forever (don't worry mom, I didn't). 
I can't quite put my finger on the reason I'm so infatuated with Portugal.  It might be that I'm so impressed- I never thought of Portugal as a destination, and it certainly exceeded my expectations.  Or maybe it was the perfect storm scenario: we stayed at a great hostel, ate good food, relaxed, wandered around town, had the perfect weather (the best October they’ve had in 70 years, according to the hostel owner), and everyone was really friendly.  Or maybe I just like it because I like it.  Whatever the reason, it was an incredible weekend.  And in the back of my head, I've been thinking of ways to go back and explore the rest of the country (family vacation, mom and dad?).  So if anyone's up for a trip to Portugal, let me know.  Or I may just pick up and come someday.  



Hasta luego,
Marion

18.10.11

Granada

Double-post Sunday turned into double-post Monday, which has now turned into triple-post week.  I’ve got lots to share, so here’s hoping I can catch up on three weeks worth of adventures!  

fun fact: granada means pomegranate in Spanish

I’ve been dying to visit Granada since forever. I can’t tell you how many people insisted I visit Granada (including Maddie, who so kindly sent me a “best of” list- perfect!).  So with high expectations, I boarded the CIEE bus Saturday morning (October 1) and headed up to the mountains.  We arrived at the hotel for an early, huge buffet lunch, and then met our guides and walked to the Alhambra.  Ángel was my guide this weekend, and I’d heard he was quite the “silver fox”.  Whether or not this is true (a little short for me, but I get it), he’s an fantastic guide.  He teaches history and film at CIEE, so he’s really cool and knows a ton about, oh you know, everything.  The Alhambra is stunning.  It was built during the 1300s by the Muslims as a palace/fortress/complex.  Granada was the last Muslim hold out during the Christian Reconquest, and the Muslims surrendered peacefully.  The Christians kicked the Muslims out, and moved in.  Physically, the Christians didn’t make many changes, so the majority of the Alhambra as well as Granada has a Moorish feel.  Ángel calls it the swan song of the Muslims in Spain The Alhambra is incredibly well-preserved, and the details are numerous and insanely intricate.  How they built this place so long ago I will never understand.

the money shot


close up of some of the plaster-carving details
and tiles.  This basically covers the whole
place

not great quality pic, but this is a carved wooden ceiling.
these were in most of the rooms


this is a ceiling.  probably the most impressive part,
at least for me. 

the famed fountain
This is the Court of the Lions.  Impressive, right?  Unfortunately, the fountain and patio are being renovated, so we didn’t get to see it.  Normally, there’s a fountain with 12 lions as its base.  We did get to see the lions, however... standing in a circle in some room.  We weren’t allowed to take pictures (I considered “accidentally” leaving my camera on and “accidentally” taking a picture, but security was very intimidating), but now I have a reason to come back.

this is what it normally looks like.  Gracias, Google!
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJF90kUJVwIf3vE4KvdfYwzLlYv4h1B1GNWztd38qysUWT9Oxu6oWMIas-PXSKMRxum4Jfdr0Uw1Drzmd21Enext2EO8T8AjCNLROwsUyTJJn2RtTZK4zJpfuor7j3abnEe_51WAmARIlo/s400/palacio+de+los+leones.JPG

After walking through the Alhambra, we walked through the gardens to the Generalife (note: not pronounced “general life”).  It’s a summer palace only a short walk away through the gardens of the Alhambra.  


the Generalife, as seen from Alhambra


a walk through the gardens



From the Generalife there are incredible views of the city and Alhambra. 



there she is!

After the tour, Ángel dropped us off in the middle of town to explore on our own.  I found some friends and we made our way through the city: Calle Elvira, a street lined with Moroccan markets and tea houses, then to the Catedral de Granada


along the river (which was more streamy than I expected)
house hunters international- I've found my
future house.  it's at the foot of Alhambra




We watched a beautiful sunset at the foot of the Alhambra, and then wandered back to the city center.  Granada is one of the few cities where they still serve free tapas with drinks,  so we take a break for tapas- tostada with jamón and tomate, and a lesson in Korean from Kelly (I’m coming back trilingual). When we arrive at the center, it’s kabob time (one of Maddie’s many excellent tips).  I was imagining  grilled meat on a stick, but it was more of a pita/gyro meal.  Quite a tasty way to end the day.

adventuring americanas.  photo borrowed from the Kelly Cho

After breakfast in the hotel the next morning (hallelujah they had cereal!) we head to Albayzín, an old hippie Muslim neighborhood on the hill next to the Alhambra.   Ángel took us through the winding streets lined with white buildings, a few churches and a mosque, ending our tour of the barrio at the Mirador de San Nicolas, where the best view of the city is:  
Albayzin


there she is, again

kelly and libbey and I at the Mirador

Then down to the city to visit the Capilla Real, where los Reyes Católicos (Isabel and Fernando, whose marriage united Spain in 1492), their daughter (Juana la loca) and her husband (Felipe el hermoso) are buried.  It’s very beautiful with lots of ornate details, and we even went into the crypt to see the tombs (but no fotos, por favor).  

but here's the outside of the Capilla Real

After a stop at a Moroccan teteria to try some African tea and a multicultural experience (another tip from Maddie), it was back to the hotel for lunch and the bus to Sevilla. I returned dead tired, which I've learned is a sign of a successful trip.  

Sra. Nurse shared this quote with me (translated into English): Give him alms, woman, because in life there is nothing like the pain of being blind in Granada (Francisco Alarcon de Icaza).  The beauty and history of Granada have been inspiration for writers and poets and travelers, and now I understand what all the fuss is about. 

one more look at the city


Hasta luego, 
Marion



9.10.11

back to school

I’ve been in real school for two weeks now- a full month after my friends back at Ole Miss began class, and almost two months after the little sister at TMS (haha).  It’s been nice only having one class (or no class) because it leaves time to explore, and let’s be real, who really wants to do school work when in Spain?  Not this girl.  But the school routine is good, and I made sure that my classes were study abroad appropriate to maximize my experience here, i.e, no literature, por favor (I should probably take a Cervantes class in his home, but I’m really bad at literature stuff in English- can’t imagine the train wreck that would be a Spanish literature class.  Save that for later).  I’m taking four classes this semester: two at the Universidad de Sevilla through its Cursos para Extranjeros program, and two through CIEE at the study center.  Here’s what I’m studying:
History of thee cultures: Christians, Muslims and Jews in Medieval Spain
This is a really interesting class, although it’s a two hour Spanish history lecture.  According to Jesus my professor, Spain is the only country to have three main cultures/religions reside peacefully together, and for seven centuries no less.  It’s a big deal here, and this historic diversity is still very evident.  I see buildings, walk through streets, eat food, and visit places that come from this time- basically, I live in a history book.
Introduction to Translation: Culture, Vocabulary and Process
This class might be a tricky one- translation is much more than looking words up in the dictionary.  We discuss the theory behind translation and practice our translation skills.  No tests in this class, though, just assignments due throughout the semester and a final project done en casa.  All of this practice is a major help to grammar skills and vocabulary, plus I’m learning what is natural for native Spanish speakers, as opposed to can I write a sentence using subjunctive (answer: maybe). 
Flamenco in Andalusia: Culture, Language, Music and Dance
Don’t let the title fool you- this is not a course where how to dance flamenco is taught.  Profesora made that clear within the first five minutes of class.  But we’ll see what I can do...haven’t given up just yet.  Anyway, this is probably my most fun class.  It’s one of those rare classes where there is a perfect combination of personalities and a really talented and relaxed teacher that makes for the best classroom atmosphere.  We have a good time.  And the content is exciting, too.  Profesora likes to shake things up half way through lecture with activities like watching flamenco videos or practicing palmas (the clapping aspect of flamenco).  Who knows, maybe I’ll come back a flamenco professional.  That sure would be something!  
Culture of Gastronomy in Spain
Here’s what we’ve all been waiting for- the food class that counts for academic credit.  We learn about how the food of Spain came to be the food of Spain, which has a lot to do with the three cultures thing, and then we put our knowledge to practice.  Yep, one day of class is “theoretical”, and the other class is “practical”- food tasting. 

This week was olive week in food class, and we spent the first day learning about olives and olive oil.    They use olive oil in EVERYTHING here: if you can eat it, chances are it has olive oil (although I’m still looking for the olive oil ice cream…).  Olive oil is good stuff, but I’m still not a big fan of green olives...they are literally the only thing I’ve found here that I don’t care to eat.  The olive oil tasting was classy- we did the whole look at it in the light thing, smell it, swirl it around, make intelligent judgements about it...things like this one has a more floral character and oh, this one is much lighter than the others and this one is very smooth, but has quite a bite at the end and hmmm, this one smells like wood (wood?)Then came the tasting.  Profesora gave each of us a shot of three different EVOOs, and we had to drink it, with specific instructions to keep some in the mouth before swallowing to really “savor the flavor”.  I don’t know if you’ve ever drunk straight oil before, but it’s kinda eww.  I’ve never tried pure olive oil before.  It has a very different taste on its own, and the three we tried were surprisingly picante at the end.  But texture-wise, thanks but no thanks, I’ll pass on drinking it.  Luckily, she brought a sack of bread to finish out the tasting.  


CIEE also has a program called grupos de interes, and I spend time each week with my group.  They’re elective groups with different cultural focuses, and along with activities throughout the semester, participation includes a trip somewhere in November.  I’d planned to pick the group with the most exotic trip (Morocco or Portugal), but I underestimated my peers- some kids got there an hour an a half early to sign up.  I didn’t, so I joined the gastronomy group that goes to Valencia (there's a very good chance I'll return a bigger girl if I keep this up).  I’d hoped join another group, simply for more variety because I'm taking the gastronomy class.  But every experience is a great experience here!  Our staff leader María is fantastic, and so is Fran, the student leader.  It’s an all-ladies group, but Fran balances out the gender thing by bringing some of his amigos to our meetings.  The first activity was a visit to the hospitality school in Sevilla (la escuela de hostelería de Sevilla)  It’s pretty prestigious, and has branches all over the world.  We took a tour of the building- it’s incredibly beautiful, and everyone who works there is training to be a chef or a waiter (which is a career here in Spain- they get paid on salary, so no tipping!) or a hotel manager, or something like that.  


catering kitchen in the basement


one of the like 15 dining rooms at the school.  We didn't
eat in this one, though

More importantly, we ate lunch. Here’s what we ate (from the Spanish menu I snatched on the way out):

White garlic soup
Soup with ham with melon balls and crunch (a terrible translation, I know, but that's what the word means. It was a chilled green melon soup with cantaloupe and pieces of ham on top. Weird, but good?  Maybe?)
Marinated Swordfish garnished with pepper sauce
Chocolate brownie with caramel sauce (there was something citrusy in there, too)
Pretty swanky.  There are no pictures of the food because I ate it all, and I sure did enjoy my meal with Fran and his friend Roberto.  I know you’re thinking, Marion, how’d you pull that off, lunch with two Spanish boys?  Well, it was the luck of the draw- every other table was full by the time the back of the group (me) made it to the dining room.  So, I had a table by myself until Roberto and Fran came to save me from my solitude.  Lunch was a little awkward but mostly fun.  Awkward because of the whole language barrier thing and they had to explain a lot to me (also, they sat next to each other across from me, so it felt a little like an interview).  Fun because they were kind enough to speak so I could understand, and I had a substantial conversation in Spanish...and duh got to have lunch with two Spanish boys!  
So that was a novel.  Thanks for plowing through that.  Don't worry, more pictures are coming soon (slowly catching up...)

Hasta luego,
Marion

30.9.11

A trip to the coast


CIEE, my study abroad program, is great for many reasons, one being that they have day trips and weekend trips for the students pretty regularly (I don’t have to pay out of pocket for the trips so it feels like a free trip, but really, they’re included in the program fee).  Las Saturday was the first of the four main trips, and we left for Cádiz early in the morn.  Cádiz sits on a peninsula in the Atlantic coast of Spain and is the oldest town in Europe, so there’s a lot of really old stuff to see there.  We spent the morning on a walking tour of the Old Town with our guide Safari Hat Fernando, seeing the Catedral, the roman theater, the many plazas, some churches, and the market in town.  

the two towers are of the Catedral- the rest is a bunch of old buildings
that I don't remember the names of...sorry

la Catedral

view from the top of the Catedral



It would be a crime to skip seafood so close to the sea, so a group of us went to eat seafood after our tour.  Some Spanish boys came with our group, and we let them order for us.  So I’m not entirely sure what I ate for lunch, but I do know I ate shark, cuttlefish, these little guys that are like calamari but still have the eyes in them, fried shrimp (but if you made fried shrimp like you make a corndog), little fish that were still whole, and something else that used to live in the ocean.  
in the market.  looks like lunch!

lunch bunch.  I loved whatever it was that I ate!


Can’t take a trip to Cádiz without a stop at the beach!  There are a ton of beaches in Cádiz, but we went to the Playa de la Caleta.  It’s in the old town, and it looks a lot like Havana, Cuba (according to Fernando, but I mean, I’ve never been there).  Movies set in Cuba will often shoot in Cadiz if they’re not allowed in Cuba.  We had perfect beach weather: it was almost hot, the water was almost cold and oh-so-blue,  and I survived the afternoon with only a light pink tinge to my skin.  It was a beautiful afternoon at the beach!  

Playa Caleta- Die Another Day was filmed here-
no sign of James Bond, unfortunately



Sadly, it came to an end all too soon, and I arrived in Sevilla in time for dinner, which happened to be fish.  It was a wonderful way to spend my last "free" weekend- real classes on the following Monday!

hasta luego,
Marion